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Brno – The Moravian Metropolis
Brno is the second largest city in the Czech Republic. This Moravian Metropolis and Prague’s eternal rival used to be a centre of textile production, nicknamed ‘Moravian Manchester’. Since the end of the 19th century it has seen a huge building boom that culminated in the 1920s and 30s, when the city came to represent the vanguard of Functionalist architecture. The most highly-prized building from that time is the Villa Tugendhat by renowned architect Mies van der Rohe, now a UNESCO World Heritage site. Brno is not only a city of modern architecture, but also a pleasant university centre full of (often very alternative) culture, fine dining and jolly good Moravian wine.
Don’t miss:
The Old Town
Very compact and you can walk it all without any problem. It offers a great many historical monuments in a compact area. The centre is dominated by Petrov hill with the monumental Cathedral of St Peter and Paul, the only place in the Czech Republic where the bells mark mid-day at 11 am. The nearby Zelný Trh square has a landmark Baroque fountain, and regularly hosts markets. Beneath Zelný Trh lies a labyrinth of old cellars and corridors, which is open to the public. Nearby is the Old Town Hall with accessible historic halls and a tower with spectacular views of the city. You can also see the dreaded ‘Brno dragon’ [crocodile], hanging in the town hall passage. From the town hall it is only a few minutes’ walk to Náměstí Svobody [Freedom Square] with its rather controversial modern Brno astronomical clock. In the centre of the city do not miss the Gothic Cathedral of St James with an accessible ossuary.
Špilberk Castle
Špilberk 1, Brno 
spilberk.cz
Originally a royal castle, progressively turned into a massive Baroque fortress, which in the late 18th century became a harsh dungeon for hardened criminals, where the Hapsburg monarchy’s political prisoners were increasingly incarcerated. You too can see these darkest recesses of Špilberk on a tour of the ominous ‘casemates’. Today the castle serves as a museum and a cultural and social centre. The hill on which it stands is a pleasant city park with lovely views of the surrounding area.
Brno villas
There is probably nowhere else in the whole Czech Republic where you will find as many architecturally unique villas from the late 19th and early 20th century as in Brno. Four of them are open to the public and are known as the Brno Villa Quartet.
Villa Tugendhat
This unrivalled Functionalist villa is one of the essential examples of the world’s modern architecture, making it a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The villa was built between 1929 and 1930 by the world-famous architect Ludwig Mies van der Rohe. The building was a revelation in its time, bringing a number of innovative and revolutionary technical solutions and materials. The villa is marvellously situated in its grounds with great views of Brno. To see the interior, a tour booking is a must, several months ahead, due to great demand.
Another Brno villa is the Art Nouveau Villa Löw-Beer, connected by gardens with the Tugendhat. Inside is an exhibition focused on the lifestyle of the bourgeoisie in the late 19th and early 20th century.
In the Brno-Pisárky city district lies the Villa Stiassni, by renowned architect Ernst Wiesner. This strictly Functionalist looking building will surprise you with its near-palatial interior, contrasting with the outside.
The last house to see can be found in the Brno-Žabovřesky district and built for his own use by architect Dušan Jurkovič. the Jurkovič Villa is a great example of distinctly Slavonic motifs, inspired by Art Nouveau.
Great places to eat & drink:
Bistro FRANZ
Veveří 461, Brno 
bistrofranz.cz
A family-run bistro with a jolly interior and a range of seasonal dishes made from fresh ingredients.
Soul Bistro Jezuitská 10, Brno 
facebook.com
A lovely bistro with its own soul right in the centre of Brno, offering unfussy but great dishes.
Lokál U Caipla Kozí 3, Brno lokal-ucaipla.ambi.cz
Another traditional Czech local pub operated by Ambiente, with classic Czech cuisine and well-tapped beer.
Mlsná holka [Sweet-toothed Girl] Poštovská 1, Brno facebook.com
A teeny shop in the city centre with a daily offering of fresh doughnuts and macaroons.
SKØG Urban Hub Dominikánské náměstí 187, Brno skog.cz
Quite a legend among Brno cafés. Sample the Scandinavian interior, Rusty Nails Coffee Roasters and a good selection of dishes.
Kafec Brněnský Orlí 491, Brno kafec.cz
Another destination on the map of all coffee lovers. In addition to a great selection of coffee from Czech roasters, they’ll also do you a breakfast on request.
Cupcakeárna na Zelňáku náměstí Svobody 21, Brno cupcakekarna.cz
If you get a bit peckish, there’s no better place. Come and see for yourself that a cupcake is no muffin.
More about the destination:
When:
All year round.
How to get here:
+420 221 111 122 idos.cz
There are many direct regular services between Prague and Brno (trains leave from the Main Station, buses from Prague Central Bus Station, Florenc stop), the journey to Brno takes about 3 hours. If you want to visit the city as part of a day trip, do head out early in the morning, then you can return by one of the many evening or night connections.