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The Large Gardens of the Lesser Town

Few people walking through the historical centre of Prague realise how many surprisingly large green areas are hiding behind the imposing walls of the seemingly small Lesser Town. The gardens here are perfectly incorporated into unique architectural backdrops while fundamentally enhancing the overall atmosphere of the “town under the Castle”. They’re ideal relaxation zones within sight of the busiest tourist routes. Here are four of the most noteworthy:

Palace Gardens Below Prague Castle

  Valdštejnská 14, Praha 1 – Lesser Town    palacove-zahrady.cz
Five interconnected terraced gardens (Ledebour, Small and Great Pálffy, Kolowrat, and Small Fürstenberg Gardens) form a unique complex of natural architecture on the southern slope of Hradčany Hill. The cascade formation with adjoining palaces and pavilions is dotted with small pieces of garden architecture that have been added over time from the late 17th century to the present. When walking through the Palace Gardens, you will literally weave between a myriad of fountains, gazebos, loggias, glorietas, balustraded terraces, and pergolas and get lost in the maze of hidden corners, passages, and staircases. The powerfully evocative atmosphere here is further enhanced by one of the most beautiful views of the city, especially of the Lesser Town. The gardens can be reached from Valdštejnská Street through the Kolowrat courtyard.

Wallenstein Garden (Valdštejnská zahrada)
  Letenská, Praha 1 – Lesser Town    senat.cz
One of the “greenest” projects of the early Czech Baroque came into existence concurrently with the construction of the Wallenstein Palace (1623-1629). The garden, based on classical traditions, is the second largest complex of its kind in the city centre – only the Prague Castle Gardens are larger. At first glance, visitors are drawn to the magnificent building with a monumental three-arched arcade – the sala terrena. Motifs from Greek and Roman mythology were the inspiration for the decor; there is also an artificial cave with stalactites and a fountain. A pond dominates the opposite, eastern, side of the garden with an artificial island and a statue of Hercules. Especially impressive copies of sculptures by Dutch sculptor Adrian de Vries enhance geometrically precise greenery, as do three interesting fountains. Free-ranging peacocks, ideal subjects for the Instagram accounts of foreign and domestic tourists, complement the garden’s sublime atmosphere. Concerts are often held here in the summer months.

Vojan Gardens (Vojanovy sady)
  U Lužického semináře 17, Praha 1 – Lesser Town    prague.eu
Hidden behind the whitewashed walls lining the entire length of the cobbled street is a surprisingly large and delightfully meandering garden. Its topography dates back to the Middle Ages when the open space belonged to the Bishop’s Court; some historians consider it the oldest of Prague’s gardens. It consists of an English park, an orchard, and a monastery garden with an elevated terrace and balustrade; there is also a pergola and a central fountain. Its distinct features include three Baroque chapels and a wall sundial with rare frescoes from the 17th century, but visitors to the garden are attracted more to its unhurried, almost dreamlike atmosphere, created by the age-old fruit trees, flowering magnolias, and buzzing bees flying from carved hives.

Vrtba Garden (Vrtbovská zahrada)
  Karmelitská 25, Praha 1 – Lesser Town    vrtbovska.cz
This terraced garden is a perfect example of the aesthetics of outdoor space. One of the most famous and beautiful Baroque garden projects, it originated around 1720. Size-wise, it’s one of the smaller gardens, but the originality of its architectural design, integrated into the irregular surface of the hillside, and its artistic and historical value, however, rank it among the best in Europe.

Around the mid-19th century, the Baroque gardens were reconceived in Neoclassical style. At that time, Empire-style outbuildings were built on the area that separates the lower and middle terraces. With its beauty and elegance, the Vrtba Garden is the perfect venue for various social and cultural activities, from weddings and garden parties to press conferences and professional seminars. And if you’d like to get a very atypical view of Prague Castle and the Lesser Town, head up to the garden’s highest terrace.

Text and photos: © Prague City Tourism

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